ROAST CHICKEN

I LOVE CHICKEN. I almost never eat it in restaurants but I do remember having the best organic roast chicken I ever ate at Craigie's on Main in Cambridge one night. And there are some days which I think about roasting a chicken all day long. I suppose it's better than craving chocolate or sugar or a quart of home made ice cream (which I never keep in the house anymore!). 

Back to Roast Chicken. Like Julia Child, I massage mine. I also work my way under the skin to make a pocket and insert a pat of butter with a sage or basil leaf to make it look pretty and to flavor it a bit. I salt the cavity and insert the carcass of a whole lemon cut in two and juiced. I salt and pepper the bird, brush it generously with olive oil and put it on a rack on top of a roasting pan which has been brushed with oil where the slices of a large onion lay in a neat row. If there are giblets in the chicken (sometimes yes, sometimes no), place those as well around the onions. Put the chicken on the middle rack of a preheated 425º oven and cook for 30-35 minutes and turn over to roast the bottom. Drizzle half the lemon juice over the skin. After about 30 minutes, the skin should be golden all around. Turn the chicken around again, drizzle the rest of the lemon juice over the top and let roast 10 more minutes if you think it needs to brown anymore. The juices should run yellow when pricked with a fork. Remove from oven, let rest covered with an aluminum foil tent for 10-15 minutes before carving. 

I love eating chicken with peas and carrots.

1 very large carrot (about 2 inches in diameter and 7-9 inches long.

2 tb. stick of butter

2 tb. EVOO
Salt and pepper to taste

Dash of sugar

Lemon Juice

Chicken broth

Peel the carrot and cut the carrot lengthwise in quarters. Turn them vertically so they are standing up and cut in half. Cut each section in strips and then cut the strips in half and halve them again so you have a thick julienne slice. Do this with all of the cut carrots. Heat the pan with the butter and oil. Add the carrots, salt and pepper, a dash of nutmeg and a pinch of sugar. Cook until the carrots are evenly coated with the oil. Drizzle some lemon juice on the carrots and cook over moderately high heat for about 15 minutes. Add 3 or 4 tablespoons of chicken stock to the pan and cook until all the liquid has evaporated. Test for donenss. If they aren't cooked through, continue to cook adding a little more stock. When the carrots are done, add about 1/2 cup frozen peas to the carrots and cook for a minute or two. Take off the heat and serve immediately with the roast chicken.

SUMMER SALADS

WHEN THE HEAT IS HORRENDOUS, cooking without heat is paramount. Of course, I'm almost embarrassed to be speaking of the easiest thing on earth to make: salads. But, besides ice cream, it's the best thing to eat on an extremely hot summer's day because one usually loses one's appetite in extremely hot weather. I recently wrote about a pasta salad with shrimp but today it's all about lettuce, tomato, avocado, et. al.; and definitely all about not touching anything even remotely resembling a stove or oven!

Here is the simplest of salads: Sliced Tomato and Avocado with a drizzle of olive oil and avocado, salt and pepper. Rabbit food never tasted so good!

Of course, you could always embellish this with any variety of additions: tuna salad (as seen below), egg salad, other raw vegetables like red onion, nuts, roasted vegetables, etc.

Tuna Salad with Tomato and Avocado

TUNA SALAD

6 oz. tuna (for fresh tuna in oil see blog entry dated January 14, 2014)

1 medium red onion finely chopped

2 stalks celery finely chopped

1 clove minced garlic

2 tbs. mayonnaise

2 tbs. dry mustard

2 pinches cayenne pepper

several turns of a black pepper grinder

Place all ingredients in a mixing bowl and mix with a pastry blender. Salt and pepper to taste and chill.

Icebery Lettuce with Roasted Vegetables

Iceberg Lettuce is 95% water and has very little nutritional value. It is, however, as a wedge salad, incredibly delicious, and, considering that it is all water, very filling. I've made it with thinly sliced red onions or shallots (yum!), tomatoes and avocado and then topped with Roquefort Cheese, lardons, and sour cream dressing, or French dressing or a simple vinaigrette. I've also made it as pictured above with roasted cauliflower and roasted tomatoes with nuts - pine nuts are terrific, but very dear! Below are a couple of dressings I make from scratch.

My Mom's Italian Dressing:

EVOO and red wine vinegar in equal portions

3 tsp. fresh or dried oregano

Salt and pepper

Pinch of Sugar

Mix thoroughly for the wedge or free pour on top of a mixed salad.

Sour Cream Dressing:

1 small container Sour Cream

1/4 cup EVOO and White Balsamic Vinegar (combined)

Salt and pepper

Pinch of sugar

For Bleu Cheese Dressing add 6 oz. crumble roqeufort or any good quality blue cheese to the sour cream dressing.

Lemon Ranch Dressing

Make Mayonnaise with tarragon and lemon

3 eggs

Juice of one lemon

1/2 cup EVOO

In a blender which has been warmed throughout with hot water, blend the eggs and the lemon. Add 2 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon. In the insert hole on the cover of the blender, add the olive oil in a drizzle while the blender is running.  It will gradually thicken into a mayonnaise.

To this add several dashes of Tabasco and Worcestershire Sauce, paprika and cayenne pepper, and a small pinch of sugar and blend very well. 

Add 1 small container of sour cream and 3 tbs. heavy cream, 1 large minced shallot and blend until thick and smooth. Chill. Mix in chopped bacon bits or lardons and chives and serve on a salad or as a dip.

FEGATO ALLA VENEZIANO

I'VE WRITTEN about liver before way back in 2013 but have recently been making it again and again because I love it. Mind you, it's not exactly the healthiest food in the chain but it is delicious and every once in a while, it really hits the spot. That is, if you are a liver person. 

FEGATO ALLA VENEZIANA WITH  POTATOES

There are two schools of thought here: to dredge in flour or not. The Harry's Bar Cookbook does not dredge their Fegato in flour. Other cookbooks do. It's all a matter of taste, really. The one drawback with the flour is that you must wipe the pan clean of all burnt floury residue after frying the liver to proceed with the recipe. This in itself isn't such a big deal but it is an extra step which takes a little bit of time and doesn't agree with the idea of being able to retain all of the flavors already accumulated in the pan. It's a personal choice. I have included the dredging step herein but feel free to omit it; especially if you're a gluten-free person.

FEGATO ALLA VENEZIANA

3 or 4 very large onions sliced very thin

3 tbs. olive oil

salt and pepper

1/2 cup dry white wine

Nutmeg

1-2 lb. Calves Liver (cut into 1/2 inch slices*, 1/4 inch thick and dredged in flour - approximately 1 lb. for 3 servings, 2 lb. for 6 servings)

3 tbs. unsalted butter

1 bunch flat Italian parsley chopped extra fine

Heat the olive oil in a large pan and sweat the onions in a covered pan for about 15 minutes to soften and render their juices and continue to sauté the onions uncovered over a low flame for about 45 minutes. Stir often You want them to become extremely soft and acquire an amber color. Salt and pepper to taste. When finished sautéing the onions, add half the wine and continue to cook until most of the liquid has evaporated. Remove from the pan and keep warm. 

Add more oil to the pan and sauté the liver over moderately high heat. Salt and pepper to taste and add a few dashes of nutmeg. You want the liver to take on a crispy crust while the pieces cook. When the liver is done (about 3-4 minutes), remove from the pan and add the pieces to the plate with the onions. Deglaze the pan with the rest of the wine, add the butter and half the parsley. Swirl around the pan until the butter is completely melted and incorporated with the parsley and then pour the contents of the plate with the liver and onions back into the pan and mix well.

Serve immediately with the whitest polenta you can find or mashed potatoes or boiled potatoes (dressed with butter and the other half of the chopped parsley) or even gnocchi or a wide buttered noodle such as pappardelle. The last time I made this, I served it with a salad of wax beans, cucumber and shallots with little bits of pickled red pepperoncini and garlic. Delicious!

FEGATO ALLA VENEZIANA WITH POLENTA

*Holding the liver flat with one hand, carefully cut the liver lengthwise into long strips and then cut them in half.

PASTINA WITH SHRIMP AND VEGETABLES

THIS DISH can be served hot or cold and it is perfect for a large buffet or party because it can be made ahead and left to sit for a bit before serving. The tomato and zucchini combination here is only one way to make this very versatile dish. You can make it with more seafood, or add anchovies and pine nuts with olives, for instance; even raisins and a pinch of cinnamon and cocoa powder with a splash of vinegar, which is very Sicilian! Any combination works, but the garlic is a must!

Serves 4

2 lbs. Shrimp

1 lb. dry pastina (ditalini, farfalline, shells, orzo, etc.)

8 cloves garlic (peeled and sliced paper thin

1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

1 bunch scallions

4 zuccini (two yellow, two green), sliced lengthwise and grilled (recipe to follow)

8 roasted tomato slices (optional) (recipe also to follow)

EVOO as needed

Devein the shrimp and leave them in their shells (optional) (let them rest in a bowl of cold water while preparing the rest of the dish)

Boil a pot of water to a boil. Add  a small handful of Kosher salt and cook the pasta. While the water is heating and past is cooking, pour enough Olive Oil to cover the bottom of a large frying pan (cast iron is ideal here). Sauté the garlic until it is golden, add the red pepper flakes if using, add the Shrimp and add a generous amount of salt if cooking with the shells, less if not. Cook until they are all an even coral color. Chop the grilled zuccini into wide chunks and add to the shrimp along with the scallions. Turn off the heat.

When the pasta is cooked, drain in a colander or sieve and add the to the shrimp. Mix thoroughly until the pasta is coated with the oil from the pan. You may need to add a little more but probably not.

GRILLED ZUCCHINI

2 whole yellow zucchini

2 whole green zucchini

EVOO

Salt and pepper

Rosemary

Lemon juice

Prepare a small bowl with salt, pepper and about 1/3 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Slice all of the zucchini lengthwise and brush the oil mixture all over one side of the zucchini. Place slices on a VERY hot grill. (If you are using a grill pan on the stove, turn on the overhead fan because you will eventually have to deal with smoke.) Brush the tops with more oil and turn when ready. You will do this process one more time with the slices but changing directions to get a nice criss cross pattern on the slices. Proceed as before with all the slices and place on a plate. Drizzle with fresh rosemary and lemon juice and serve immediately or at room temperature. 

ROASTED TOMATOES

3 lbs. Italian Plum Tomatoes
Salt and pepper
EVOO
Fresh thyme

Preheat the oven to 425º.

Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush it with Olive Oil and sprinkle Kosher Salt on top of the oil. Sprinkle some thyme leaves on top of the salt.

Hull the tomatoes and slice lengthwise in thin slices. Place the tomatoes on the parchment in neat rows. You may run out of room so be prepared to use two baking sheets if necessary.

Salt and pepper the tomatoes, brush with the rest of the oil and sprinkle the remaining thyme leaves or sprigs on top. 

Place in the middle of the oven and roast for at least 45 minutes. They are done when the edges are wrinkled and brown and sizzling on the paper.

Remove from oven, allow them to cool and place them in an airtight storage container. They will keep refrigerated for about a week.

BIRTHDAYS

ARE ALWAYS festive occasions and it is such a pleasure to celebrate someone's life with friends and good food. My sister Monica celebrated such a birthday a few weeks so it was only fitting that I should cook an extravaganza for her, my other sister and her closest friends. We had a jolly old time. 

I am still amazed that I am capable of pulling off a sit-down dinner for eight in my tiny apartment, but I did. Of course, serving a 5-course meal requires time and planning: cooking stock, pâté, hors d'oeuvres and desserts days in advance always helps and, I was indeed cooking and cleaning all week. Here's what we had!

Chicken Liver Pâtè

Goat Cheese wrapped in Seaweed

Caponata

Olives

Prosecco

Vichyssoise

Chardonnay, Louis Latour

***

Lasagna with Eggplant, Veal and Four Cheeses

Jeff Carrell 2014

***

Watermelon and Lime Ice with Bombay Sapphire

***

Navarin d'Agneau made in the style of Beouf Bourguignon

Pommes Dauphinoise with Roasted Whole Plum Tomatoes

Gaia Barbaresco 2011

***

Ricotta Torte with Lemon and Almonds

Apricot Tart

Potato Chip Cookies

Brownies

Truffles

Caffè

Now, to write it all down!

VICHYSSOISE

Vichyssoise is the most classic of soups. It is relatively simple to make if you are well versed in stocks and have the fortitude and patience to keep it in the fridge untouched until ready to serve because once seasoned and chilled it is unbelievably delicious; it can also be extremely rich if eaten in large quantities. 

Start with a rich chicken stock made from the carcass of a roasted chicken: boiled, skimmed and then simmered in a large pot of water. After skimming the stock, add one whole leek, one large unpeeled onion, 2 stalks of celery, 3 medium sized carrots and bring back to the boil. Immediately turn the heat down to the lowest setting, add a bouquet garni made of parsley, sage, rosemary, thyme, a bay leaf and a few black peppercorns wrapped in cheesecloth or ensased in the hard green leaves of a large leek and tied with string. Simmer for 3 hours covered. After the stock is a rich, deep color, let it cool, uncovered and then degrease and strain through a china cap strainer lined in cheesecloth or paper towels and discard the vegetables. You will need 3 quarts of stock for this recipe.

4 tbl. butter

2 tbl. EVOO

2 whole leeks

1 small white onion or 4 shallots (optional)

5 potatoes, peeled and then cut into 1/2 inch dice

1/2 quart milk

1/2 quart heavy cream

nutmeg

salt and white pepper

chopped chives 

Clean the leeks thoroughly until there is absolutely no sand of any kind left in the leaves. Chop off a good 3 inches of the green leaves and reserve for another use (bouquet garni comes to mind here). Chop the leeks and onions and sauté in the butter and EVOO over moderate heat until they soften but do not brown. Add the stock and the potatoes and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to medium and add the milk, bring to a boil again and then simmer. When the potatoes are completely cooked (after 20 minutes or so), continue to cook for another 15 or 20 minutes to let the soup amass the flavors of the leeks and potatoes. Turn off the heat and allow to cool for about 15-20 minutes. At this point you can either use a hand emulsion blender or a food processor blend all of the ingredients. At this point, the soup should be a somewhat thick purée. Allow to cool further and strain again through a sieve or china cap strainer to weed out any hard pieces of leek that may remain. Season with the nutmeg, salt and white pepper (chilled soups require over-salting so be careful not to salt too much until the soup is completely chilled and the rest of the cream has been added). Add half of the cream and chill. Allow to chill at least 12 hours, add the rest of the cream and season to taste. Chill another 8-10 hours before serving with a garnish of chopped chives.

I've written about lasagna several times in these pages so the recipes can be found if you search "Lasagna"

WATERMELON ICE

2 cups chopped watermelon

3 limes

1/2 cup sugar syrup (1/2 cup water, 4tbls. sugar brought to the boil until sugar dissolves)

1 small airplane-sized bottle of Bombay Sapphire

Place all ingredients in the blender and blend to a smooth consistency. Let cool and place in the refrigerator to chill (at least 8 hours but preferably overnight). Place in the frozen element of an ice cream maker and follow manufacturer's instructions on making gelato or granite. Keep in freezer until ready to serve and scoop out very small portions on chilled glass plates or in sherry glasses to cleanse the palette.

NAVARIN D'AGNEAU

This is a variation on Beuof Bouguignon found in Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking. The simple substitution of lamb for beef transforms this dish into a gamey dish of great succulence and flavor.

6 oz. slab bacon cut into lardon pieces

3 pounds lean lamb cut into 1 inch pieces

3 tbl. flour

1 onion, finely chopped

1 lb. carrots cut into large julienne

2 qts. beef or lamb stock

1/2 bottle rich red wine (Burgundy, Côte du Rhone, or a very good Chianti will do)

4 tb. unsalted butter 

18-24 pearl white onions peeled

3 tb. unsalted butter

1 tb. EVOO

1 lb. slices mushrooms 

salt and pepper

a couple of scrapes of nutmeg

white wine

Madeira or Port or any other sweet wine such as Sherry or Marsala

In a large casserole dish, melt some butter with the lardon and cook until the lardon has rendered most of its fat and begins to turn a deep brownish red. Remove lardon, add some olive oil and sauté the pieces of lamb (do not overcrowd the pan or the lamb won't cook evenly). When all the lamb pieces are browned on all sides add all of it to the pot and sprinkle the flour over the pieces and let the lamb acquire a glaze. This will allow the sauce to thicken once you've added the liquid. Add the carrots and the onion and saute momentarily with the lamb. Add the stock and then the wine and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down and simmer over the stove covered or place in a 375º oven (preferred) for 2-2½ hours. Once the lamb is cooked, take out of the oven and let it rest with the top slightly ajar. (Up to this point, you can make this at least 24 hours beforehand and refrigerate and reheat when it is time to serve.)

While the lamb is cooking in the oven (or reheating), prepare the onions by using a small paring knife and cut off a thin slice of the root and cut a criss-cross at the other end of each onion. Place the onions in a small pot of boiling water for about 10 seconds and drain. The thin skins should slide right off and you will retain a whole onion for cooking. In a rather large sauté pan, sauté the onions over moderately high heat. Season with salt and pepper. You must be on the lookout here because you want to make sure the onions brown on all sides so you need to shake the pan and roll the onions round and round to brown them evenly. This should take about 20 minutes or so; they should take on the color of deep amber. Splash a little white wine on the onions and allow to cook for a few minutes more. Never one to shy away from the gilded lily, I add some cream at the end to thicken the butter sauce just before adding the onions to the lamb.

After you've cooked the onions, melt the butter and oil in a deep pan. Add the sliced mushrooms, salt and pepper and nutmeg. Cook covered over moderate heat for about 5 minutes. Uncover and stir. There should be quite a lot of juice from the mushrooms which you will need to let reduce. Turn the heat up higher and allow to reduce to about 2 tbs. of liquid in the pan. Splash with a good dose of white wine and cook until the wine is completely reduced. Add the Medeira and cook until that has been reduced to a thick syrup. Take off the heat.

Just before serving, add the onions and mushrooms to the lamb and serve garnished with parsley.

POMMES DAUPHINOISE WITH ROASTED TOMATOES

This isn't exactly a traditional way to make potatoes in the dauphinoise manner but the experiment paid off. Truly! I decided to layer roasted tomatoes in between thin slices of potatoes covered in a good dousing of heavy cream diluted with a little milk. 

Butter to grease an oven proof dish

1 clove garlic smashed 

4 Potatoes, peeled and sliced very thinly on a mandolin

1/2 dozen roasted tomatoes cut in half 

  (see blog entry dated February 4, 2016)

1 pint heavy cream

1/4 cup full milk

Butter to dot the layers of potatoes

Salt and pepper

Rub the garlic all over the baking dish. Grease the dish with butter and start layering potatoes. Dot the potatoes with little pieces of butter and season with salt and pepper. Add layer of potato and continue alternating with each layer and finish with a layer of potato. Dot the top as befoe with a little butter and drizzle all of the milk and cream all over the sides and top. 

Place the dish in a 375º preheated oven and bake until the cream thickens and bubbles into a rich custard. Take out of oven to settle and serve.

The desserts can be found in other entries by doing a simple search in this blog. 

Afterwards, we went for a stroll on the Sun Terrace of my building where we were treated to a fabulous view of the New York Skyline at night!

The next evening we dined at Gramercy Tavern and enjoyed a lavish 6-course Chef's Tasting Menu. They topped it all off with their own personal birthday greetings!