Friday, February 24, 2017

INTRUGLIO

HAVE YOU EVER WALKED into an Italian grocery store, I mean the small, little ones, family owned, smelling of the old world, reeking of olives and salami and hard pungent cheese? 


Well, this dish represents that scent, the succulent aroma of olive oil mixed with fruits of the vines and trees. What's more, it might be a little pricey to make because olives and sun-dried tomatoes and cheese have become rather dear not to mention the extra virgin olive oil, but it is so simple to make that it's crazy.   



Etymologically, Intruglio (pronounced een -TRUE-leeyo - The G is silent when preceding L followed by I or E) means slop, muddle, concoction. I found this recipe in Tessa Kiros' gorgeous and fabulous cookbook: Venezia - food and dreams (page 71). She states that Intruglio is of Tuscan origin.  But it's altogether possible that this mixture is made throughout Italy where olives and tomatoes live in ubiquity. In Calabrese the word intruglio means pigswill, which it definitely is not! It even has had connotations like "bad medicine" and "paint stripper" throughout the ages and can be dated back as far as the Romans. Being an olive-oriented society, I'm sure they made full use of oil and salt to preserve foods like this.


This "concoction" is basically made using:


1 cup of Kalamata olives 

1 cup of large green olives 
1 cup of any other kind of olive (red or green or black for variety of type and color; I recommend pitted olives)

Mix with a quarter pound of soft goat cheese and a half pound of Buffalo mozzarella. Since Buffalo mozzarella is so expensive I just use the little bocconcini which I flatten with the palm of my hand. Mix all the ingredients in a large bowl and add either some fresh oregano or some rosemary with some thyme, a dash of hot red pepper flakes and a couple turns of black pepper from a pepper mill. Also optional: a heaping tablespoon of capers and some anchovies.


Pour the mixture into a large glass airtight container (those which are used for preserving are ideal) and add 1 to 1 1/2 cups extra-virgin olive oil to cover the mixture completely. Refrigerate for at least 2 to 3 days or up to a week and then you can start using it. I have used very little of it in the past and must say that it grows in flavor with a little aging. I use some and then cover it with more olive oil which will help the mixture to stay completely perfect for at least a month.


At this point you can top it on bread or crostini as an antipasto or dress any pasta of your choice with it.

Boil any kind of macaroni or pasta (shells, butterflies, rigatoni, penne) and cook until ready according to the instructions on the box. Drain, put back in the pot with a little bit of olive oil some black pepper and add about three large spoonfuls of the intruglio and mix thoroughly. Serve immediately with some grated Parmesan cheese.


A slight variation: Preheat the oven to 375°.

1/2 pound salt cod soaked in water for several days with changes of water every eight hours. Take a large piece of parchment paper put the cod on the paper, place about three very large spoonfuls of the intruglio over the fish, wrap the fish with more parchment paper and seal all around it. Put on a large roasting pan and roast for 20 minutes. When the fish is ready open up the parchment poor everything onto the pasta and mash the fish into the pasta with a wooden spoon so it's well incorporated. Serve immediately but without cheese. 
Buon appetito!