GELATO

I KNOW that summer is over and I have procrastinated to the nth degree, but here it is, my many takes on gelato, granita, and ice cream.

I've been experimenting over the summer and trying to perfect the actual process, not to mention the texture of all things frozen. The key, I think, is having a lot of patience and an extremely good, frozen element in your ice cream machine. 

CHERRY VANILLA, PISTACHIO AND GIANDUJA

First of all, let me be clear: these are basically eggless custards which, I suppose, contradicts what an actual custard is. All recipes are based on a basic formula: the combination of milk and cream with sugar, corn syrup, and gelatin.

The basic recipe for a gelato bianco is:

2 cups whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

3 tsp. light corn syrup or 2 tsp. honey

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup powdered skim milk

1 tsp. unflavored gelatin (bloomed in cold water)

Heat the milk with the cream and the corn syrup to a simmer. Mix the sugar and the powdered skim milk and add that to the liquid until it is dissolved. Add the gelatin and mix well. Remove from heat and allow to cool before placing in the refrigerator for at least 5 hours (preferably over night). 

You now have a white gelato base from which you can make endless variations of gelati.

To make Pistachio gelato, you must make pistachio paste. No substitute will do here. You can buy paste or flavorings for many fruit ices and sorbets at Italian specialty stores, such as Buon Italia in Chelsea Market here in New York or online. Many of these flavorings come in rather hefty quantities and are rather dear to the pocket so, if you have the wherewithal, go for it. However, if you want to really enjoy the experience, and with a little bit of knowledge, it is possible to make these at home. To make pistachio marmalade is rather simple:

1 cup shelled pistachios

Pour boiling water onto the pistachios and let sit for about 3 or 4 minutes. Drain and place on a clean, dry dish towel and rub them around until the skins come off. Place the "green" nuts in in a spice blender or a nut grinder (Cuisinart has a great one) and grind with 1/2 cup confectioners sugar for about 1 minute. You should have a very green paste. 

2 cups sugar

1/2 cup water

Bring the water and sugar to a boil. Make sure the sugar is completely dissolved. Add the pistachio paste and cook, stirring constantly until the liquid becomes very thick. 

Your big decision here is now to make gelato with nutty pistachio or just pistachio syrup. I prefer to press the nuts through a sieve and use only the green syrup and then reserve the nuts left behind to dip the edges of cannoli.

The same process can be employed for making nocciola (hazelnut) gelato but without the sugar and the water. Simply toast the nuts, place them on a dry towel and roll them around to remove the skins. Grind the nuts with 1 cup confectioner's sugar until you have a dense, buttery paste. Add that to the gelato bianco and proceed with the ice cream making process. 

To make Gianduja gelato, simply melt 8 oz. semi-sweet chocolate (70% cacao, please) with a stick of butter and add the nut paste, allow to cool and refrigerate and proceed with the recipe.

To make Stracciatella, the same process of melting chocolate is employed but instead of the butter melt the chocolate in a double boiler with 1 tbs. unflavored vegetable oil and allow to cool somewhat before gently pouring the chocolate in a steady stream into the gelato just before it is finished in the machine. Instead of chocolate chips, little frozen flecks of chocolate with form. You can make a variation of this by taking about 12 mint leaves and blanching them in boiling water and then puréeing them and adding the purée to the gelato bianco to add color and mint flavoring.

Pictured above, you will see that there is also cherry vanilla. Macerate freshly pitted cherries with sugar and 1 tbs. vanilla and add to the gelato after it has reached the frozen state in your ice cream making machine and freeze. 

LEMON, PINEAPPLE, MANGO WITH GINGER AND ESPRESSO SORBETS

To make sorbet: all one need to do is substitute the dairy for a simple syrup made from sugar and water, gelatin and any other flavoring agent (fruit, citrus, cocoa powder, etc.).

1 cups sugar

1 1/2 cups water

Blend the sugar and water and bring it to the boil and stir until the sugar is completely dissolved. Remove from heat and allow to cool completely.

Take any fruit of your choice, such as strawberries, raspberries, mango, melon, etc., and puree the fruit in a blender. Add the simple syrup along with

2 tsp. light corn syrup

1 tsp. unflavored gelatin dissolved in cold water (bloomed)

Place in the refrigerator for at least 5-6 hours, preferably overnight. When the mixture is completely cold, proceed according to the instructions on your ice cream maker.

LEMON SORBETTO

To make any type of citrus ice or sorbet:

Beat one egg white until soft peaks begin to form. Add 1/2 cup sugar and beat until semi-stiff peaks form. Add the simple syrup as well as:

the juice from 5 lemons

grated lemon zest from one lemon

Mix well and refrigerate overnight. The egg whites will form a great deal of froth at the surface of the bowl which will incorporate itself into the sorbet as it freezes in the ice cream making process.

As you can see, the possibilities are endless. Use a little imagination when making gelato. Be creative and add surprising elements into the recipes. For instance, I've added ginger and lime in many of the fruit ices, especially the mango and melon sorbets. I also like to add lime juice for added depth, especially in watermelon granita. Espresso granitas or even a non-dairy espresso gelato with egg yolks is possible, but beware: a little of this goes an extremely long way and if you have trouble sleeping after drinking coffee, this variety of gelato will take you over the edge.

Buon appetito!!!