PESTO

One of my readers complained the other day that the type size on my blog, especially with the new design, was hard to read. Rather than change the background again (I'm not ready for that yet), I'm going to try a larger print size and see how that works. If I don't like it, I'll go back to regular print, but we'll try it for a while and see how it goes. 

That said, it's August and it's the season for two things: harvesting tomatoes and making tons of sauce to can and jar for the coming months; and collecting the very-in-season basil to make pesto. I know, I know. I could go on and on how the word "pesto" has been done to death in every American kitchen and crept its way into literally any and every Italian dish imaginable, but there is nothing like la vera cosa (the real deal)! It's not that hard to make and it is, without question so very much better than ANYTHING you will find in a grocery or specialty store. Pesto with preservatives and that far off faded green to almost black color is the kiss of death. Pesto should be green! Like this:

Ready for the fridge - GREEN Luscious Pesto!

Which brings us to ingredients. With the price of Pignoli (pine nuts) reaching ever heavenwards - last time I looked at Fairway, the price was $19.00 a pound; Costco offers a 1-1/2 pound bag for $24.99, but they're made in China; and Kalustyan's on Lexington Avenue offers the Chinese brand at $19.00 a pound and the superior Italian version at $36.00 a pound - it is positively prohibitive and put into the proper perspective (fois gras from D'Artagnan costs $62.00 a pound), is totally unrealistic. So, I have modified my version of Pesto Genovese and use hazelnuts. I have used walnuts as well from time to time and they both work out pretty well. The secret is to grind the nuts and then pulverize them completely into a paste in a mortar and pestle. Considering you're cutting down on pignoli, the same cannot and should not apply to the cheese you use. Grana Padano or Reggiano-Parmigiano, please; and thank you very much, too! Domestic Parmesan chesese should never be used, not even the ersatz version from South America. The Extra Virgin Olive Oil should also be of high quality (I use Sicilian olive oil). This is not an inexpensive sauce, let me tell you; so if you really want to go whole hog, use pignoli. The fois gras will have cost less! 

PESTO

1 large bunch fresh basil (cleaned in a water bath, stems removed and dried with a paper towel or a salad spinner)

6 cloves garlic

Pinch of salt

1/2 cup walnuts or hazelnuts (which will diminish to about 4 tbs. after you've pulverized into a paste)

1-1/2 cups Grana or Parmeggiano (grated)

EVOO

Crush the nuts with a rolling pin or put the nuts in a food processor or mini-food processor and process for about 5 seconds. Place the mixture into a mortar and pestle and work them into a paste. Set aside and reserve. Chop the entire quantity of basil until extremely fine (you will originally have  had a huge pile of basil on your cutting board, which, once chopped as finely* as you can get it, will have reduced in volume by about 6 inches high and 12 inches in diameter into the size seen in the picture below). Take the garlic cloves and with the flattened end of a cleaver, smash them and chop very fine. Add to the mortar with a pinch of salt and grind with the pestle until it is a paste. Start adding the basil a little bit at a time and grind until it becomes a green paste. Continue doing this until all of the basil is used up. 

Results from chopping and grinding 

Add the nut paste and mix well with the pesto. Start drizzling in Olive Oil just up to the point that you start to see that there is excess oil. Add grated cheese until it absorbs most of the oil and stop. Let rest for about 15 minutes. Add a little more oil and mix until it has saturated the basil.

Pesto

When it is finished, store in a plastic container or a glass jam jar. Cover with a light film of olive oil. I could say to use  it within one week or freeze for up to 6 months, but, it is recommended that you use it up the day you make it. I know that it seems like a lot of work for only one meal but even using it one day later alters the taste of pesto. It is made from fresh ingredients and should be eaten as a fresh commodity. Freeze it if you must, but it will never taste as it will the day you make it.

PESTO

To make pasta con pesto, it is always advisable to make it with a long noodle such as tagliatelle or pappardelle. Linguini or tagliolini will do, but I wouldn't go any thinner and I definitely wouldn't use any sort of macaroni - not even penne; especially not penne. Always remember to take a ladle-full of the pasta cooking water just before the pasta is finished cooking and add it to the pesto before you mix with the pasta.  Toss and serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. 

Buon appetito!

* You can chiffonade the leaves if you want to work harder or you can use a food processor if you're lazy, but I don't recommend it. There is something very metallic tasting in the pesto when made by a machine and it isn't as rewarding in the end. I use a large Chinese cleaver for chopping the basil and the garlic. It is VERY fast and extremely efficient. Pesto is one of those things that demand attention and patience. You won't be disappointed and once you've tasted it, you'll never use a machine again for this delicious sauce.