I MADE RISOTTO the other night and mentioned it to a friend while walking Ludwig (who adores risotto, by the way) and she asked me to post this so her husband can make it for her. She's pregnant you see and has been having finicky dietary cravings and I know that her loving husband will aim to please!
It would be an assumption on my part to say that the combination of peas and asparagus is something a normal Italian might make (some sensibilities may be offended by the combination of two vegetables, contending that asparagus or the pea can stand on their own, which in fact, they can) but sometimes you just get those yearnings for something like this to eat and I had both vegetables in the house and thought it would be a great combination and, true for form, it was.
A lot has been said over the years about the stirring process. To stir or to constantly stir. This is something that you must decide for yourself. Everyone knows their stove and how the heat is distributed (or at least I hope you/they do) and it is important to know exactly how much liquid you can incorporate at one time. I have often added more liquid during the process than I should and let it cook unattended for a few minutes while chopping something else or making a salad, etc., and returning to stir only to find that the risotto is cooking perfectly well on its own. It is only important to remember that you shouldn't be too far away at any given time or leave it on its own for too long. What you want to avoid at all costs, however, is the risotto sticking to the bottom of the pot, so heat, or rather, the amount of it, is key here and stir you definitely should! What is required here is patience, anticipation . . . and love.
This recipe was made with roasted asparagus - only because I had roasted them the night before and had so much leftover - but you can make it from fresh asparagus which, in the long run, is better. The color is also a deeper green on the plate. Either way, this dish epitomizes great northern Italian cooking and makes a delicious first course (only a little bit, please!) or a very substantial and filling main course.
I used two cups of risotto and about 5 cups of chicken broth which makes this an ultra creamy risotto; especially if one considers that heavy cream, butter and cheese are added at the end. This recipe serves 6-8 people as a first course and 4 for a main course.
4 tbs. olive oil
1 onion, chopped very fine
2 cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice
1 cup white wine
5 cups chicken broth** (heated and kept on a simmering flame)
12 spears fresh or roasted asparagus, trimmed, peeled and cut in small pieces on the bias, reserving the tips for last
1 cup baby peas (fresh or frozen depending on the season)
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 tbs. unsalted butter
a scrape or two of nutmeg
1 cup grated Reggiano-Parmigiano
Heat the olive oil in a deep, heavy bottomed cast iron or enameled pot (Le Creuset dutch ovens are perfect for this). Sauté the onions over moderate heat until they are translucent.
Add the rice and combine well with the onions to ensure that the risotto absorbs the juices and is coated with oil.
Add the white wine and stir over moderate heat. As soon as the wine has almost evaporated, turn down the heat to a very low simmer and begin to add the broth, one ladleful at a time. You want the rice to absorb the liquid gradually so stirring is essential here. Continue to do this until the rice takes on a creamy consistency and has doubled in volume. I would say that after about 3 cups of liquid, you should start testing the risotto for doneness. This is a crucial moment because you want to make sure that you haven't a long way to go before the risotto is done before you add the asparagus. Otherwise, it will overcook and discolor and we all know that there is nothing worse than gray vegetables! Add the asparagus pieces and cook with the rice for about 5 more minutes. Continue to add more liquid as you go and then add the peas and the asparagus tips. Five cups of broth should yield a wonderful risotto all'onda (waves) as the Venetians say. When you taste the risotto for doneness, it shouldn't be crunchy, but it should still retain its own character and acquire a plump and pillowy texture.
When almost all of the liquid has been absorbed from the last addition of broth, add the nutmeg, the cream and the butter. Stir into the rice and add a handful of grated cheese and allow that to cook into the risotto as well. You want to incorporate those last additions but not completely cook it away; especially since the risotto will continue to cook after you take it off the heat. The risotto should be very creamy and glisten.
Serve immediately.
Buon appetito!
** N.B. You may have noticed that I haven't called for salt. The chicken stock should be well seasoned and salted so you really don't need any extra salt; especially if you take into account that the grated cheese will add enough salty flavor of its own.
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