IT'S THAT TIME OF YEAR AGAIN and if one has noticed, most of the food magazines and TV shows have revved up a full metal jacket of tips and recipes and blogs and, and, and, and . . .
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| THANKSGIVING DAY PARADE AT 59TH STREET |
Well, I must admit that I am no different. Every home cook has their own take on this yearly feast, so let's talk turkey here. And duck. And oysters. And fruit, as well as a host of other little goodies.
The ubiquitous turkey seems almost a prerequisite and this holds true in our household as well. My take on it is somewhat different and even though it is unorthodox in a certain sense, I've found out that other very good and ambitious home cooks do it in exactly the same manner. I first time I saw turkey prepared this way on a video of Jacques and Julia's and, even though there is initially a bit of a tug of war with the turkey in its raw state (the wishbone in particular), I'll never make it any other way again.
One could say that making a Thanksgiving dinner is all about timing and I am here to say that the less time we spend hogging the oven with a bird, the better chance we may have at success in every other dish. Consequently, I partially bone the turkey. I remove the legs and then bone the thighs and stuff them. I remove the carcass and wishbone and use the carcass for turkey stock, but leave in the breast bone. By doing this, I have taken a 26-pound turkey and pared down the cooking time to a mere 3 1/2 versus 5-6 hours. This also ensures that the breast meat will be moist and tender as well as completely cooked.
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| BONED ROAST TURKEY |
So there is my turkey. Gorgeous, isn't it? You'll notice that the legs are backwards because they're not attached. The thighs are stuffed as well.
It's always a very good idea to create the menu a good 2-3 weeks in advance. But once you've set it, stick to it; don't change your plans midway or even close to the date because it will only cause you grief of the worst kind! Indeed, some things need to be started around this time (today's date is November 13th). If you're Italian, like I am, you're probably going to at least consider making some kind of stuffed pasta, so you should definitely start thinking about that now. Pumpkin or squash is usually the way to go. Ravioli, tortelli . . . you get the picture, I'm sure.
Charcuterie is always a good idea during cocktails since all you have to do is prepare a platter and let people dig in (some prosciutto, speck, cheese, olives, cornichons, bread and pâté). If you make pâté as I do, getting the right ingredients and beginning preparations now is key. Forcemeat for a terrine should usually marinate in its processed state with white wine a little cognac and spices for a good 5-6 days before baking and then it should sit in the fridge encased in its own jelly (or crust - see photo) for at least 2-3 days, so, allow a good 10-12 days for that. All you need to do is think that it's one step less work to do the week of Thanksgiving and all you'll have to do is pull it out of the fridge and serve. Other years have seen Oysters Rockefeller, Ceviche, Gravlax, even a Lasagna as a tiny second course after the fish or seafood.
Now that I've introduced the first steps, let's propose a menu - at least one that I would do. One must remember though, small portions until the main event! But please remember, these are just suggestions for those who are willing to do the work - and love it - and want to gild a lily or two.
It's always a very good idea to create the menu a good 2-3 weeks in advance. But once you've set it, stick to it; don't change your plans midway or even close to the date because it will only cause you grief of the worst kind! Indeed, some things need to be started around this time (today's date is November 13th). If you're Italian, like I am, you're probably going to at least consider making some kind of stuffed pasta, so you should definitely start thinking about that now. Pumpkin or squash is usually the way to go. Ravioli, tortelli . . . you get the picture, I'm sure.
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| TORTELLI ALLA ZUCCA |
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| Pâté en Croute |
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| Gravlax made with Salmon and Cod on Black Bread |
Charcouterie of Various Hams and Salamis, Cheese, Olives
Pâté of Duck Liver and Pork with Pistachios and Prunes in Aspic
Tortelli alla Zucca in Brown Butter and Sage
Granita of Lime and Pomegranate with Gin
Turkey with Stuffing
Giblet Gravy
Cranberry Sauce
Scalloped Potatoes (or mashed if you want traditional)
Glazed Carrots with Brown Sugar and Butter and Tarragon
Brussel Sprouts Bathed in Butter with Shallots and Bacon
Sweet Potatoes
Apple and Mincemeat Tart
Vanilla Ice Cream
Pecan Fingers
Meringues
Chocolate Truffles
Espresso
Fernet-Branca
Cordials and Brandy
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