CHRISTMAS COOKIES - PART ONE

I WAS GOING TO WRITE about Cassoulet but, since I'm still writing down the procedures on that dish, I'd say a few words about Sicilian Christmas cookies - and Italian cookies as well (eventually). 

I've already written about Cuccidadi (last December), which, by the way, I found completely by accident in another Sicilian cookbook called Coming Home to Sicily by Fabrizia Lanza. She calls them Buccelatti, which makes complete sense as it is a roll up pastry of sorts.

My grandmother and my mother, as well as aunts and my older sister ALL SPECIALIZE(D) in making Dadús - a chocolate rum ball (of sorts), which are totally delicious - and addictive! Indeed, all of them believe(d) to possess the patent on baking these chocolate cookies. In my humble opinion, my mother always made the best ones as she never skimped on the liquor or eggs. Whereas hers were always moist, others were dry and crumbly and others still were like rocks, but I'll never tell whose they were! 

Dadús

Makes roughly 500-600 cookies
(you can reduce the amounts by half for less cookies, but I guarantee you, they won't last until Christmas if you do.

5 lbs. flour
3 cups sugar
1 lb. pure cocoa powder
2 lbs. unsalted butter
2 doz. eggs
2 large jars mincemeat
2 lbs. chopped walnuts
2 lbs. chopped peanuts (unsalted) 
3 tbs. vanilla
2 tbs. almond extract
1 tsp. salt
1/4 cup rum
1/4 cup brandy

You will need a very, very large bowl (a metal wash basin will do) or you'll have to divide and do in separate batches. You can halve the recipe and use a large stand mixer with the paddle attachment, but be advised, sooner or later along the way of preparation, you will have to use your hands to mix and knead.

Cream the butter and the sugar and then add the eggs. Gradually add the chocolate powder and then the flour. The dough will be very dark. Add the mincemeat and flavorings and salt until the right consistency for rolling into small balls. Add the liquor at the end making sure not to add too much at a time. You want the dough to absorb the liquid. Using plastic gloves, remove from the mixer bowl and knead for a few minutes on a wooden board lightly dusted with flour. If very sticky, you may have to add more flour. Put back into the large bowl, cover with a damp towel and let rest or cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight if making the night before you bake; just make sure you take the dough out of the fridge a good 2 hours before you start rolling the cookies. I find that letting the dough sit overnight helps the flavors to blend and marry.

A very important Sicilian tradition when rolling or preparing almost ANY cookie is the first cookie must be in the shape of St. Joseph's staff (see photo below). San Giuseppe is the patron saint of all bakers and miracles are said to have occurred when gifts have been made and prayers have invoked the generosity of this saint of saints.

St. Joseph's Staff

Roll the dough into small balls and place on un-greased cookie sheets and bake in the oven for 9-10 minutes in a 400º (365º convection) oven. Turn the cookie sheets around half way through the cooking time. DO NOT OVER-BAKE! You want the cookies underdone as they will continue to bake once out of the oven. This ensures that they won't harden into rocks. Let cool completely or overnight before glazing.

Glaze

2 lbs. confectioner's sugar
1 tbs. vanilla
1 tbs. lemon juice
Milk as needed, mixed 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls at a time with a fork, to make a thick creamy glaze (no lumps!)

Generously brush glaze over each cookie (I glaze them twice) and let dry overnight on sheets of parchment paper or foil before storing in containers for refrigeration or freezing. 

Next stop: Pork and Beans, the way the French do it!