NEW YEAR'S EVE IN SOLITUDE

FIRST OF ALL, Happy New Year! It's is exactly 12:03 a.m. and we are now in 2014! At least in New York. I know people in Madrid, Rome and Berlin who are already in bed and California is, as always, 3 hours behind. Australia is already approaching January 2nd. Funny thing that International Dateline!

I didn't make plans for tonight's festivities (in general, I eschew big crowds, unless they're for me!) but I did have a friend or two over for tidbits of this and that and later today I will do something more elaborate, perhaps a rack of lamb or a major pasta dish with duck. 

In any event, tonight I made a little platter of prosciutto and chopped liver with some crusty bread as well as a Brandade. 

Serving salami or prosciutto with a spreadable and bread is always a nice thing no matter how large or small the crowd is (it's perfect for one person, too). It does, however, allow you to do other things while everyone nibbles, including you, and be social at the same time. 

Prosciutto and Chopped Liver

CHOPPED CHICKEN LIVERS (my way)

As you will see, this is not any old kind of chopped liver. Since the only ingredient in common with its Jewish/Kosher counterpart is the chicken liver, this version gilds the lily with madeira and balsamic vinegar and duck fat, and then gilds again with the addition of milk and tomato paste. It is extremely rich, yet moist and full of bittersweet flavor. If I wanted to make this a truly Sicilian dish, I'd have added unsweetened cocoa powder (but only a little!) and/or raisins. 

1 lb. chicken livers

1 medium red onion, sliced thinly

2 cloves garlic (smashed)

2 tbs. butter

2 tbs. olive oil

1 tbs. duck fat

salt and pepper to taste

2 tsp. dried tarragon

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup Madeira

1 cup whole milk

1/8 tsp. nutmeg

3 heaping tbs. tomato paste

Drain the liver into a small china cap strainer and rinse under cold water until the water runs clear. Set aside and allow to continue draining until needed.

Melt butter, oil and duck fat in a medium-sized pan with high walls. Add the onion and saute up to the point where the onions begin to brown and caramelize. Add the livers, season with salt and pepper and the tarragon and sauté until well browned. Add the vinegar and cook until it boils. Add the Madeira and cook that until it boils as well. Let reduce by half. The livers and juices should be quite thick. Add all of the milk and the nutmeg and cook until that boils. Lower the heat to a gentle simmer and let cook for about 30 minutes. The liquid should be very thick and bubbling. Stir often. After about 20 minutes or so, add the tomato paste and combine with the cooking juices. Continue to cook until the liver takes on a very dark, mahogany color. Let reduce until there is almost no liquid left (2 tbs. should be sufficient). You'll know it's done when oil starts to gather on the surface and at the sides of the pan. Take off the heat and let rest and cool down for about 10 minutes.

Transfer the entire contents of the pan into a food processor and process for about a minute. You should have a silky, thick yet moist chicken liver paste. You can process longer is you want a dense, smooth consistency. 

Transfer to a small bowl for presentation. You will have a lot so put the rest in a plastic container and reserve for another time or to refill the bowl later on.

Place the chicken liver in the center of a large serving dish, arrange slices of prosciutto on one side and slices of toasted baguettes on the other and serve.

BRANDADE*

Salt cod can be used in many ways but this dish is a particular favorite of mine and can be eaten either as an hors d'oeuvres or if you're so inclined, an entree with a salad or vegetable. It requires a few steps but isn't difficult to make at all and the rewards for patience are great!

1 lb. salt cod (soaked in frequent changes of cold water over the course of 18-24 hours)
3 medium-sized potatoes (peeled and chopped into 1/4 inch dice)
2-1/2 cups milk
5-10 cloves peeled garlic
1-2 sprigs fresh thyme
12 turns of a pepper mill
8 gratings of nutmeg

1/2 cup olive oil

Enough freshly grated Parmeggiano (3-5 tbs.) to cover top of au gratin dish.

Brandade au Grating

Place the filets of fish in a pan and cover with water. Bring to the boil and cover. Cook for 3 minutes or so. Drain the fish in a colander and let rest for a few minutes. Meanwhile, peel and dice the potatoes and prepare the other ingredients.

Return the fish to the pan with the potatoes, the garlic and the milk. Add the thyme, the pepper and nutmeg. Bring the milk to the boil, lower heat to a healthy simmer and cover and cook for about 30-35 minutes. After about 20 minutes or so remove the cover if there is too much milk left in the pan. You want to make sure the milk reduces by at least half. 

When the mixture is cooked, take it off the heat and let rest for 5-10 minutes. Remove the thyme and discard. With a slotted spoon, transfer the solids to a food processor and begin processing, adding the milky liquid a little at a time with each addition. It will be very thick. Using the feed tube of your food processor, drizzle all of the olive oil into the processor while motor is running. Correct seasoning if necessary. Pour the brandade into a gratin dish large enough to hold all of the mixture or divide the puree between various sized dishes (which you can cover and freeze for another time - they reheat extremely well!). 

Sprinkle on the grated cheese and bake in a 425º oven for about 30 minutes or until the grating is bubbling and the top has become golden brown.


Take out of oven and let stand for about 10 minutes to cool. Serve with slices of baguettes.

*This is adapted from Jacques Pepin's recipe found in Chez Jacques. He serves his Brandade with a semi-hard boiled egg (Mollet Eggs) which is making an already rich dish that much richer.

6 eggs

Carefully lower the eggs into boiling water and cook gently for 6 minutes. Drain the hot water out of the pan and add cold water and ice and set aside to thoroughly chill the eggs. Peel the eggs carefully under a cold stream of water, only after they're completely cooled. Place the eggs in a bowl of cold water and reserve until ready to serve. To reheat, place the eggs in a sieve or steamer and lower into a pan of hot water and reheat for 2 minutes. The eggs can now be used to serve on top of the Brandade with heated baguettes slathered with butter.