Tuesday, April 7, 2020

20-MINUTE PASTA

We all need some diversion right now. With the escalating numbers and dire instructions to stay at home, pandemic or not, we are trying to find things to occupy our minds and our time. I wrote about memories yesterday, so I'll continue to reminisce with a more recent story. 

I was chatting with an old friend about pasta the other day and wrote down a few thoughts on getting something on the table in no time at all. Of course, you have to have an arsenal of ingredients at the ready for however you want to create this dish - the possibilities are endless - but it's also about the time involved. One needn't fuss to make something extraordinarily delicious, yet simple. 

The conversation began over a pasta recipe in the food section of a California  newspaper callled "caprese", which wasn't a salad in the conventional sense; it was a bastardization of yet another magnificent Italian creation (think pesto and how it's inappropriately and incorrectly put on anything). I told her she'd be hard pressed to find ANY Italian, no matter how adventurous, eating mozzarella, basilico and sliced raw tomatoes with pasta. As a rule, and even though I love it, Italians don't eat pasta cold. Anyway, here is my go to recipe for pasta with roasted cherry tomato sauce that has endless variations and iterations. 


I roast cherry tomatoes whole in a cast iron skillet at 375ยบ. I toss them (in the pan) with about 2 tbs. EVOO, a good helping of Kosher salt, 8-10 grinds of the black pepper mill, and a generous shake of powdered rosemary and thyme (which I grind myself from dried herbs). Roast for 1 hour or until they start to wrinkle, caramelize and take on a deep red hue.

I make enough to last me at least 4 or 5 days. (At least 2 pounds)

To make the spaghetti:

I allow 80-100 grams per person (4 oz. = 118 grams on the scale) so a pound per 4-5 people as a main course or a side dish. I have found that one helping of this is never enough FOR ANYONE.

The sauce can be made while the pasta water is heating up and the pasta is cooking. You'll need some of the pasta cooking water. Always use plenty of water in the pot and add a handful of Kosher salt to the pot when it starts to boil before adding the pasta.

1 shallot (or a small onion)
2-3 cloves garlic
3-6 anchovies (optional and to your taste)
red pepper flakes (more or less depending on how picante you want it)
1 cup toasted cherry tomatoes
Vermouth or White wine
Basil leaves cut into chiffonade

Saute the shallots, garlic, anchovies and pepper flakes together. Add the tomatoes, smash them into the sauce and add a good splash of the Vermouth or white wine. Let that cook and meld together. Add the basil. Continue to cook over low heat until it forms a dense mass. At this point, you'll need to start adding a little of the pasta water. Set your timer according to the directions on the pasta box. Two minutes before the pasta should be done, add 1/4 cup of pasta water to the sauce. Raise the heat and bring to the boil. Just before you are ready to drain the pasta, add a little more pasta  water, correct seasoning, if necessary. Make sure the sauce is thick and bubbly and add the pasta directly into the pan with the tomatoes. Toss with a pat of unsalted butter and serve. Cheese, of course!


I know there are many steps, but trust me, you can make this dish in 20 minutes. TOPS! Someone with only a very little bit of expertise should find this a piece of cake! I like to have a mise en place ready to go when I put the pasta water on the fire.

Variations: black squid ink pasta with this sauce spiced up with more hot pepper flakes, more garlic of course and seafood (squid, shrimp, scampi, lobster, etc.)

Linguini or cappelini or even rigatoni or gemelli (with tuna OMG!) I have made this sauce and added chopped slices of leftover breaded eggplant and added a dollop of sour cream to the sauce just at the end to make an improvised Pasta alla Norma! Another Sicilian twist: add a handful of roasted pine nuts and golden raisins to the sauce while cooking and dress the finished product with bread crumbs instead of cheese. This is particularly appropriate with pasta al sardo (sardines). 


One can use pancetta or guanciale as well. I have given up meat for Lent so it's sort of vanished from my lexicon at the moment, but rest assured, meat will be back on the menu next week!

Buon appetito!


 

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