Friday, September 14, 2012


FINOCCHI BRASATI CON I FUNGHI E PORCINI

BRAISED FENNEL WITH PORCINI AND OTHER MUSHROOMS

Braised Fennel

The marriage of fennel and mushrooms may seem unlikely since they both have such distinctive flavors but, what results from the addition of a braising broth made from dried porcini is total decadence.  Two rich flavors are then augmented with several tablespoons of cream to add depth to an already profound flavor base. This fennel is a perfect accompaniment with veal, pork and meatier types of fish, such as monkfish and skate, even cod or salmon, and definitely grilled tuna. With the substitution of vegetable broth for the meat stock, it can be included in a very nice vegetable platter for a vegetarian or vegan.

You will need a good stovetop grilling pan as well as a cast iron or heavy enameled casserole pot to braise the fennel (Le Creuset fits the bill here perfectly). 

Preheat oven to 350º

2-4 whole fennel bulbs, quartered with root ends kept intact1/2 cup olive oil2-3 cups hot stock (chicken or veal or vegetable)Kosher saltpeppernutmeg1 minced shallot1-2 ounces dried porcini mushrooms, cepes or morels1-2 cups liquid from the reconstituted porcini2 cups fresh white or cremini mushrooms, remove stems and chop, slice the tops, sauteed in butter and reserved for braising3-4 tbsp. heavy cream2 tbsp. unsalted butter1/2 cup chopped flat leaf (Italian) parsley2 tbls. chopped fennel fronds

Cut off stalks of the fennel bulbs and reserve for another use such as salads. Reserve fronds and chop finely for garnish.

Chop parsley for same and mix with the fennel fronds and reserve for final garnish.Mince shallots and reserve.

Place porcini in a clean, dry bowl and immerse them in one cup of boiling water.
Brush or "paint" the oil on all sides of the quartered bulbs, sprinkle some kosher salt and then grind some fresh pepper on the bulbs, and then do the same with some fresh nutmeg. Place them on a very hot stovetop/cast iron grill  and lower heat to avoid smoking and grill until they are lightly browned and grill marks are visible on all three sides of the quartered pieces (about 15 minutes). Let rest.

Quarter the fennel bulbs and trim all hard or discolored, unwanted exterior skin, but keep the bulb quarter intact.

Pour the hot stock slowly into the grill pan to deglaze. Melt some of the olive oil and butter together in casserole dish, sautee the shallots, pour juices from the grill pan into the pan and sauté the mushrooms for a couple of minutes. Add some salt, pepper, nutmeg, stir and cover the pan over moderate heat for 5 minutes. After uncovering pan, you will find that the mushrooms have rendered an enormous amount of liquid. Raise the heat and cook until the juices have been reduced to about 2 teaspoons of liquid. Drain the porcini and reserve the liquid. Add the porcini and 2 cups of the stock. Add the fennel and bring liquid to the boil and remove from heat. Cover pan and place it in a 350º oven. Braise in the oven for about an hour, turning every so often so all sides are being braised evenly in the liquid, making sure the fennel quarters stay intact. Spoon stock over the exposed fennel occasionally. When they are shriveled slightly and golden remove he cover and braise for another hour or until most of the liquid has reduced to about 1/2 cup. Remove from oven and let rest for about 20 minutes. There should be very little broth left in the pan (perhaps 5 tablespoons or a little more. Place on moderate heat on the stove and pour (hot, reheated) porcini liquid into the pot but through a sieve lined with cheescloth or a paper towel (to keep any gritty sand or dirt out of the cooking liquid). Bring to a boil and reduce to simmer until liquid is reduced yet again to about 4 or 5 tablespoons. Add heavy cream and cook without disturbing any of the fennel bulbs until cream is thick and bubbles like lava. Garnish with the parsley and fennel fronds and serve immediately.

As I said above, this dish goes well with a variety of dishes, be it meat, fish or other vegetables. Like many other braised dishes, it is almost always better the next day. I have often used leftover braised fennel as an ingredient in a vegetable lasagna. But, one can eat it as it is - a real meal in itself! 

Buon appetito!




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