Cannoli

Everyone knows what cannoli are and most Sicilian families - and this IS a Sicilian delicacy -  have their own way of making them. Some cannoli are made with a very dramatic and decadent chocolate "crema" or a rich pistachio pastry cream thickened with corn starch. However, ours is the traditional cannoli made with ricotta, sweetened with lots of powdered sugar and candied fruits and citron. Chocolate chips or pieces of broken chocolate as well as other confections (candied orange and lemon peel, for instance; a variety of nuts, especially pistachios) may be used as well. I am including my mother's recipe for cannoli shells as well, but it isn't a crime if you buy the shells ready made*. I buy them because my kitchen is too small to deep fry anything at all, but if you're a purist, knock yourself out. It definitely can be done well - and better - at home if you have the time to dedicate to making shells. You will need stainless steel cannoli shells to form the cannoli (see photograph below).

Cannoli

THREE CUPS RICOTTA CHEESE

1/2 gallon WHOLE Milk

2 cups half and half

1 cup heavy cream (optional - I like it creamy)

1/4 cup white distilled vinegar

Use a stainless steel or heavy enameled pot (Le Creuset is ideal) large enough to hold all liquids. Once you stir in the vinegar, you will see the milk products start to separate. Place the pot over moderately high heat and bring to a simmer (just short of  the boiling point (180º F). Gently stir occasionally so the milk doesn't scald and stick to the bottom of the pan.. You don't want to disturb the curds. I use a rubber spatula instead of a wooden or metal spoon to get in the corners at the bottom of the pan. 

While the milk is heating, place a double sheet of cheesecloth or a tea towel under water and then squeeze out water and unfold over a colander. 

Large clumps of curd will form and float to the top of the pan. When the temperature reaches 180º, remove the pot from the heat. Place the colander in a large bowl and start removing the curds with a slotted spoon (do not pour all the contents of the pan into the colander). Once all the curds have been removed, and if the whey is still very cloudy, you can bring the liquid back to the boiling point to see if more curds will form. If so, place those in the colander as well.

Let the ricotta drain in the colander for at least one hour. You want a dense mass of ricotta cheese, so, the longer it drains, the denser the cheese will become. You can place the cheese in plastic storage containers and refrigerate for up to a week but it is best when at its freshest. 

16 CANNOLI SHELLS

1-3/4 cups flour
4 tsp. sugar
3 tsp.  cocoa
1/8 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. salt
3 tsp. lard or margarine (chilled and cut into cubes)
2 egg yolks
1/4-1/2 cup Marsala Wine or Sherry (enough to hold the dough together)

Sift the flour, sugar, cocoa and cinnamon in a mixing bowl. Use a pastry blender or a fork to cut into the lard or margarine and mix until little dots form and the dough takes on the consistency of cornmeal (same process as pie dough, but without the ice water).

Whisk eggs and wine together and start adding liquid one tablespoon at a time until the dough  starts to stick together and looks lumpy. You may not need to use all of the liquid ingredients.

Knead dough on a floured surface until the dough takes on a satiny sheen and small bubbles appear in the dough. The bubbles mean that the wine has begun its fermentation process which will result in a crisp, light shell. Makes sure you knead the dough very well as larger holes holes in the dough will cause the shells to explode when they are inserted into the hot oil. Let the dough rest, covered, in a cool place for at least one hour.

Roll out the dough on a floured work surface to a width of 1/16 of an inch and cut 3-inch circles with a cookie cutter or a large glass. Roll each circle into 3x5 inches ovals. and roll up with the stainless steel cannoli forms and seal with a little bit of water.

In a large, heavy-bottomed stainless steel pot of electric deep fryer, heat enough lard or oil (I use grape seed oil) to fill the pot to a depth of at least 3 inches. Heat to a temp-erature of 350º (use a frying or candy thermo-meter) and insert shells and fry 2 or 3 shells at a time until they are golden brown and crisp (1-1/2 minutes). Take shells and the forms out of the oil with tongs and shake the shells loose from the forms and let the shells cool completely on paper towels. Repeat process until you have made 16 shells.


FILLING

3 cups fresh ricotta
1 1/2 cups powdered sugar
2 tsp. vanilla
1/2-2/3 cup mixed candied fruits, citron, candied orange peel, candied lemon peel
1/2 cup chocolate chips or broken pieces of semi-sweet chocolate (optional)
5 tsp. ground pistachios (shelled and peeled) (also optional)

Cream the cheese, the sugar and the vanilla in a stand mixer or a food processor. Fold in the candied fruits and optional chocolate and nuts. Refrigerate until ready to use. (Will keep refrigerated up to 3 days.)

FILLING THE SHELLS

You can use a pastry bag or fill these by hand with a teaspoon. Either way, fill from the center out and repeat the process from the other end of the shell. You can decorate the outside of the holes with chopped pistachios or candied lemon or orange peel or a maraschino cherry (red or green). Dust the entire tray of cannoli with powdered sugar and serve. Cannoli should only be filled immediately before serving because the filling with make the shells soggy if made to sit longer than an hour.

* Cannoli shells may be purchased here in New York at:

Ferrara's Bakery, 195 Grand Street, New York, NY 10013,
Tel. 212 226 6150, www.ferraracafe.com
Bruno Ravioli, 282 First Ave., New York, NY 10010, Tel. 212 254 2156, www.brunoscatering.com;
Fairway Market, 2127 Broadway (@ 74th Street), and other locations, New York City, Tel. 212 595 1888, www.fairwaymarket.com;
Zabars, 2245 Broadway (@81st Street), New York, NY 10024, Tel. 212 787 2000; www.zabars.com.